What 4C means
| Code | What it means | Common causes | What to check |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4C | Water supply error, the washer isn't receiving enough water, or fast enough, within its expected time | Supply valve not fully open, kinked or crimped inlet hose, clogged inlet filter screens, low household water pressure, water supply shut off entirely | Both hot and cold supply valves, inlet hoses, inlet filter screens, water pressure elsewhere in the house |
Samsung's own troubleshooting documentation lists a blocked or partially closed water supply as the leading cause of this error, along with kinked hoses and a malfunctioning inlet valve (Samsung washer error code support).
Work through it in order
Start with the fastest check. Most 4C errors clear at step 1 or 2 without needing to touch the inlet filter at all.
Confirm both water supply valves are fully open
Check the hot and cold valves behind the washer. A valve that's only partially open is one of the most commonly overlooked causes of 4C, since it's easy to assume a valve is fully on when it's actually a quarter-turn short.
Check both inlet hoses for kinks
Look at the full length of each hose from the wall connection to the back of the washer, especially if the machine was recently moved or reinstalled. A crimped hose restricts flow enough to trigger 4C even with the valve fully open.
Clean the inlet filter screens
Turn off the water supply, disconnect the hoses at the washer end, and check the small mesh screens where each hose connects. These catch sediment from the household supply and are a very common clog point, especially in older homes or areas with harder water.
Test water pressure elsewhere in the house
If the valves, hoses, and filters all check out, run a nearby faucet and see whether it's slower than normal too. A house-wide low-pressure issue can trigger 4C even with nothing wrong at the washer itself.
When it's not the water supply at all
If pressure and hoses check out fine and 4C keeps coming back, the inlet valve solenoid inside the washer may have failed. That's a part-replacement job rather than something you can unclog, and it's a reasonable point to bring in a technician. It's also worth ruling out a drain problem instead of a supply problem: a washer stuck mid-fill behaves very differently from one stuck mid-drain, and it's easy to mix the two up from memory after the fact.
